Into Malaysia: Melaka

Unfortunately after just three days it was time to move on from Singapore to a less expensive city. We crossed the border into Malaysia on a pleasantly simple local bus journey which dropped us at the border town of Johor Bahru.

Our first impression of Malaysia was that the central bus stations are very well organised and the baked goods are disgusting. What I hoped would be a tasty savoury snack, purchased in a busy bakery, turned out to be a cream cake coated with spicy chicken. What a combination.

From the organised bus station of Johor Bahru we continued a few hundred kilometres up the west coast to the historical UNESCO town of Melaka.

What we didn’t expect when we arrived in Malaysia was that we would once again be faced with monsoon rains. After a summer of heavy rain in Thailand and Cambodia, followed by a typhoon which had us stranded for five days on an island in Vietnam, we were hoping to be over the worst of the weather as we headed into dry season. However, the dry winter season ends at Thailand’s southern border with Malaysia, and the monsoon begins again here. It’s bizarre that Thailand and Malaysia should have opposing seasons. The reason is that the monsoon we experienced in the summer comes from the west, while the monsoon currently soaking Malaysia comes from the east. The result is that we arrived in Malaysia and immediately scrapped all plans to travel up the east coast, as the resorts are all closed until February and the roads are dangerous to travel on in the rain. Instead, we went straight to Melaka, perhaps the most historical town on the peninsular.

Melaka's main square.

Historically, Melaka was a huge trading port which grew rich by trading spices. It was first colonised in the fifteenth century by the Portuguese, who remained for 130 years, leaving a distinct mark on the country’s heritage. Later it was colonised by the Dutch, and more recently by the British, before finally becoming independent in 1957. Today the town boasts several museums dedicated to displaying its colonial past, as well as being home to the old fashioned Chinatown, a couple of Catholic churches and a beautiful painted riverfront.

We enjoyed a relaxing river cruise past vividly painted colonial houses and a traditional Chinese village, and even spotted a monitor lizard swimming at the side of the bank. After that we walked around Chinatown and down the famous ‘Jonka Walk’, which really wasn’t worth all the hype. After a short jaunt up a hill to see a Portuguese Catholic church we’d pretty much seen all of Melaka. 

Painted houses along the river.

It’s a photogenic small town that can easily be visited in one day, but as we’d booked ahead for three nights we wisely spent our remaining time browsing shopping malls and going to the air-conditioned cinema.

Cycle rickshaws in Melaka really go the extra mile to decorate their bikes.

We Stayed At…

Backpacker’s Freak Hostel: one of the worst places we’ve ever been, a disappointing start to our time in Malaysia. Rooms with shared bathroom only from £7 (35ringit). Unfortunately the shared bathrooms are also used by the young boys who work there. We woke to find the toilets unflushed and covered in piss every day.