Into Burma: Yangon

A 4am flight from Bangkok’s Don Meung Airport took us on our way to Myanmar’s dusty capital, Yangon. We arrived, by chance, on the country’s Independence Day (independence from the British in 1948). Our first impression of Yangon was that it resembled a post apocalyptic city: there were no cars on the roads, few people in the streets and the buildings were in various stages of decay with glassless windows and plant life emerging from the cracks. However, we soon realised that the population were gathered down alleyways and side streets, where big street parties were taking place. We watched children taking part in community sports days whilst parents clapped from the pavement, then set off to explore the city. On closer inspection there had been no zombie uprising in Myanmar, although the buildings were indeed falling apart.

Kids line up for sports day.

5-a-side on a dual carriage way.

We ventured into town where gilded Sule Pagoda marks the glistening centre of the city, and doubles as a roundabout. Behind, the obelisk overlooking the pagoda is the Independence Monument, sitting in centre of park full of courting couples kissing in the privacy of an open umbrella. Two sides of the main square are flanked by grand colonial buildings housing national banks, as the sun set they sparkled with thousands of fairy lights. I was walking around the centre admiring the architecture in all its fading glory, thinking how nice Yangon was, much nicer than the deserted zombie land I first encountered. 

Then we spotted an ‘occupy’-style protest right outside the Supreme Court. People who had been forcibly evicted from their homes had taken up residence in the city centre, they demanded their land back. It was a sharp reminder that as tourists we only get a glimpse of a country. 

Protest, Yangon.

We explored the capital over two days, walking around fascinated by how different Yangon is compared to the other Southeast Asian capitals we’ve visited. Most buildings are three or more stories high, with each level housing a separate family. From the laundry-cluttered balconies on each floor hangs a long rope with a bag attached at street level, facilitating the delivery of groceries, mail and front door keys, saving the occupant the effort of going downstairs to open the communal door. Yangon reminded me of Kathmandu in that it is very dusty, and is overrun with pigeons.

On one of our long walks we came across the Vintage Yacht Hotel, moored on the bank of the river. We walked on board the 1930’s styled yacht, which was empty but for the staff, and had a good nosy. It was really unlike anything I’ve seen before, all dark wood and leather, antique grammar phones and imitation gas lamps. On the top deck, instead of a swimming pool there were four freestanding bathtubs complete with brass fittings. 

The main attraction in Yangon is Shwedagon Pagoda, a large gold stupa that attracts millions of pilgrims each year. We started our pilgrimage with a walk around Kandawgyi Lake, which has an attractive boardwalk around fountains and flowering gardens. The pagoda itself is currently being restored, but rather than being disappointed I was amazed by the scaffolding that follows the contours of the structure perfectly. Never have I seen such intricate work, constructed by hand from bamboo and rope, even the colour of the bamboo is in keeping with the gold of the stupa. We walked around Shwedagon twice as the gold structures sparkled in the setting sun.

Kandawgyi Lake.

Shwedagon South entrance

While Yangon is certainly not the most attractive city in Asia, it is extremely interesting and was a wonderful first impression of Myanmar.

We Stayed At…

Myint Myat Hotel: a bit far from the city centre (30 minute walk) but well worth it, especially with the wonderful open terrace on the top floor. $30/£20 for a double with shared bathroom.