Mokpo; Chuseok Backpacking Part I

For the Chuseok five day weekend Ric and I went on a mini-tour of South-West Korea.
First stop: Mokpo. 2 hours and 45 minutes away from Cheonan on the high speed KTX train.

Yudal Beach
Don't go. It's tiny, barely big enough to build a sandcastle on! The trip to the beach wasn't entirely wasted however, as it did lead us to getting slightly kidnapped by an over friendly Korean man named Leon. He offered us a lift to one of the islands and, keen to seize the moment and save bus fare, we accepted. Unfortunately, Leon had other plans and tried to take us across the country to some place 6 hours away. When we tried to make our excuses and escape he begged us not to leave him alone and forcefully invited himself to join us camping in our tiny tent! Slightly creeped out, we left Leon looking heartbroken and set off up Yudal mountain.

Naff beach, but there is a bar...

Yudal Mountain
The mountain has two peaks, we climbed both with all our backpacks and camping equipment on our backs because we are that badass. From the highest peak you get a 360 degree view of Mokpo and all the islands that sprawl out towards the horizon. Be warned though, the summit is nothing but a couple of rocks and it's windy up there! Unlike the Koreans who hiked to the top, took a photo and then hurried down, Ric and I stayed there for ages, hogging the small space, drinking gin 'n' tonic and playing cards - may as well make the most of the view!

Stopping for a rest half way up the mountain.
Nuff baggage.

View from the smaller peak

View from the highest peak

Sunset from our camp

Mokpo's famous bridge impressively illuminated

Mokpo

 Camping
Just 100m down from the summit of the mountain we found a cave that made a perfect camp for the evening. We assembled our crumby tent, made an awesome camp fire and watched the sunset with a beer and a picnic. The cave made a perfect place to camp, so much so that we slept for almost 12 hours!

Koreans sharing their lunch with the sweaty Westerner

Tent, fire, picnic, gin, beer.

Sunrise over Mokpo

Old vs. New
Around the train station and mountain is known as Mokpo old town, most of the buildings are traditional one-storey shops, homes and restaurants. On the other side of town, a 10-15 minute taxi ride away, is new Mokpo. This is where all the cool bars and trendy restaurants are. It's really worth visiting both just to get an idea of how different the two areas are. The new part has the "Ocean Dancing Fountain", a water display with music and lights.

Mokpo Ocean Dancing Fountain

Mokpo was great, camping was serene and getting kidnapped... well it's funny in hindsight. Don't talk to strangers kids!!

• Sleeping: we stayed two nights, the first we camped and the second we stayed at F1 Hotel. It's in a rather seedy yet excellently located area behind the train station and is gorgeous inside: 42 inch plasma TV, huge shower, remote controlled mood lighting. All for 50,000won (about £27) - bargain!!
• Transport: the number one bus conveniently served all our needs: bus station ~ train station ~ beach. 

FC Seoul

Saturday 22nd August

Deoksu Gung palace

Last Saturday I made my second trip to Korea's capital in order to pursue Ric's insatiable love for football; we were going to watch FC Seoul vs. Pohang Steelers and somehow the voyage had attracted the interest of three Americans: Claire, Alex and Jared.

We arrived in Seoul a little after midday and decided to fit in a palace visit before the main event. Deoksu Gung palace is in the center of Seoul, nestled nicely between sky scrapers and Seoul's city hall. The palace looks fairly modern, as with many palaces in Seoul it was repeatedly destroyed and rebuilt during the years of Japanese occupation. It was pleasant to walk around and entrance cost only 1000won (50p)!

The Expo in central Seoul

Across from Deoksu Gung there was an exposition of tradition medicines and general health products that offered a pleasing amount of free samples! Everything from fried duck to fermented
fungus!

We stocked up on samples and had a picnic on the grass in the middle of the stalls.

Teacher's picnic; my colleagues Claire and Alex to the right.

Finally it was time to go watch the football, and even I was a little excited. The subway to the World Cup Stadium was packed with red and black striped shirts and everybody rushed out of the underground to be first in line to buy tickets.

Ric outside the World Cup Stadium

At the ticket booth the attendant asked me a question in Korean which I didn't understand, she then waved her arms at me and made a "wooooo" noise. I told her yes, we do want to be in the stand with the crazy fans.

The following 90 minutes were more of a work out than I've ever done in the gym! Constant jumping, clapping, singing and chanting. There were fireworks at kick-off and every time Seoul scored and there were dozens of flags being waved. Seoul won 3-2 and although Ric wasn't at all impressed with the quality of the football, the fans didn't half put on a cracking show.

After the match had finished all the hardcore fans gathered behind the stands and starting singing and dancing. Right in the middle of the chaos was of course, my boyfriend. As if to prove the adaptability of football chants, FC Seoul's songs were to the same tune as any generic UK football song, so we could even sing along!

The fans.

World Cup Stadium, attendance 17,000. Capacity 66,000.

Americans LOVE "soccer", it's so cultural!!

Ric's souvenir of the day

When the excitement finally fizzled out we ended to Itaewon for some dinner. Itaewon is the most westernised part of Seoul and this was reflected in the prices! We had Mexican food and an expensive cocktail before heading home on Korea's bullet train, the KTX (which was nothing compared to the Chinese bullet trains that went over 300km/hr).

Itaewon at sunset