Gakwonsa to Deokjeon, Snow Hiking

After far too many weekends of staying in bed watching episodes of House, we decided to brave the cold and go hiking in the snow. I've never been hiking in the snow before, but unfortunately I neglected to put a memory card in the camera, so I'm going to have to rely on the power of description for the majority of this post.

We went to Taejosan, because it's really close the centre of town and started our hike at Gakwonsa. Walking up the mountain in the snow was no easy feat. There was a fresh layer of snow that provided some grip, but still some parts of the trail were entirely covered in ice. The steam that runs parallel to the path was frozen and there were some really cool ice formations where waterfalls had turned to ice, the water was still running under the ice too.

We eventually got to the ridge at the top of the mountain and our sweat from the hike started to freeze in the icy gale, so we promptly decided to go down the opposite side of the mountain to check out a small farming village called Yuwanggol (유왕골). It was creepy; there were lots of dogs and a couple of cows, there were houses and cars parked up, but we didn't see a single other person there.

Then we decided to wall along the valley, following a river and a dirt track that eventually turned into a road. It was very beautiful; mountains on either side, everything covered in snow, the frozen river, and the only sound was the wind in the trees.

We walked forever, until the sun was going down behind the mountain and our whole bodies ached from the cold. We kept passing clusters of houses, really big, elaborate houses with patios leading on to the river, and yet we still didn't see another person. Perhaps they were all hiding from the cold, like sensible people.

We kept walking towards our unknown destination, wondering whether we'd eventually have to turn back and return the same way we came, or whether at any minute there'd be a path leading up over the mountain and we'd have to endure another steep ascent in the snow. Luckily we emerged from the valley and found a main[ish] looking road with a bus stop!

Our relief was short lived however, when we realised the bus was only three times a day, and that the next one wasn't due for another two and a half hours.

We continued along the main[ish] road, in the direction we considered to be home. Along the way we played in the snow, which was like crystals because the weather had gotten warmer and then very cold again, turning the snow flakes into ice flakes.

We came to Yongyeon Reservoir (횽연저수지) in a place called Mokcheon, it was totally frozen. There we also found a map, which we were very grateful for as we were able to turn off in the right direction.

With only about an hour left before the sun completely set we began the long climb uphill towards Cheonan. We'd been walking for about three hours and had done about 10km, our legs ached and we were very very cold. So, once again, we resorted to hitching our way home.

The first car we saw stopped for us and the elderly driver motioned for us to get in. I was very grateful for the Korean I have learnt as he didn't speak a word of English and I was able to address him using the most formal level of the language, which I think he appreciated, even if what I said was far from grammatically correct. I asked him where he was going and he asked us where we were going, and just as we arrived at his village he turned off the road onto the highway to Cheonan; going well out of his way to get us safely home.

As soon as we passed a bus stop that had more than three buses a day we got out of the car, thanking the old man profusely for his incredible kindness. It was very touching that he was willing to drive us all the way home, even though we could barely communicate and it was miles out of his way.

Finally we got home and defrosted. It was a great walk.

I was so disappointed about not being able to take any pictures that I went back to Gakwonsa the next day and took some photos of the snowy path, the frozen stream and the temple. Here they are:

Frozen pond at the bottom of the mountain.

The beginning of the path that leads up Taejosan.

Frozen stream.

Buddha at sunset.

Gakwonsa temple.

Gakwonsa temple.

Gakwonsa temple.

Winter sunset over Cheonan.

Gakwonsa temple.

Gwangdeok Mountain Hike

Sunday 24th September

Lately the weather has changed a lot. It's no longer unbearably humid and sticky; it's warm and sunny yet cool in the shade. The sky is clear and cloudless and there's a slight breeze. I love autumn in Korea.

Gwangdeok temple (just before the funeral!)

Sunday was yet another gorgeous day and me and Ric decided to make the most of it and go for a hike. We headed south of Cheonan to Gwangdeok Mountain. It took just over an hour to get there on the bus.

Gwangdeok temple

At the base of the mountain there is a temple (Gwangdeok temple). Cue yet another culturally awkward moment. We were admiring the temple when the courtyard suddenly filled with sombre looking men and women wearing long black robes... carrying a framed picture of a monk. We'd only gate crashed a Buddhist funeral!! Oops! The temple is home to that famous walnut tree I mentioned in a previous blog, only we were too ashamed of ourselves to go and check it out and so we just headed straight for the mountain.

As Ric and I aren't exactly budding fitness fanatics we chose the shortest route up the mountain. Unfortunately, we quickly learned that the shortest route up a mountain is usually also the steepest, and we had to drag ourselves up for 3km, first up man-made steps, then up a dirt path, until finally we were clambering up over jagged rocks. We did get some impressed looks off other hikers who had gone up the long route and were descending the steep route.

Pure stairs: the first part of the hike.

Finally at the top the view was stunning: a 360 degree view of mountains rolling into the distance, Cheonan just a tiny square of concrete rising up in the middle. It was well worth the burning thighs and the back sweat. Whilst catching our breath at the summit we befriended a middle-aged Korean man by sharing our snacks with him, in exchange he offered us his bottle of wine! The wine was surprisingly delicious and I got to practice my Korean skills by attempting to make small talk with him.

Stunning views from the top of Mt. Gwangdeok

Cheonan in the distance

Tired and sweaty at the summit

Going down the mountain was when the adventure really started. We planned to take the alternative, longer, less steep route down the mountain back to the temple where we could take the bus home. However, somewhere we took a wrong path and got ourselves lost. When we realised we were lost Ric suggested we turn around and climb back up to the summit so that we could take the same route down as we'd taken up. Cue me sitting down on a rock and crying that I couldn't make it back to the top. Too much lactic acid burn. Although in hindsight Ric had a sensible idea.

Instead we just carried walking down the mountain, at that point anything was better than up! After about 45 minutes of walking the sun was beginning to set and we realised that if we didn't increase our pace there was a real possibility that we'd have to descend the rest of the mountain in the dark! Half jogging we made it to the village of Gangdang and although we still had no idea where we were, we felt relieved to see a couple of houses.

Gangdang, a quirky village 

Being stubborn, we continued to walk along a deserted road in an unknown direction until finally, a car approached.  Impulsively I stuck my thumb out and the car stopped. We were saved. The couple in the car were lovely, they spoke English and laughed at us when we told them we were trying to get to Cheonan. They seemed shocked that we'd managed to find our way to such a remote mountain village. We gratefully accepted their offer to take us to the nearest train station and were soon resting our aching muscles inside their car.


Finally we made it home having learnt a valuable lesson: if you're lost up a mountain in Korea in the dark, just keep walking and get into cars with strangers... it'll all be OK in the end!

Logistics
You can take the 600 or 601 bus from outside Shinsegae in downtown Cheonan and get off at the last stop. The bus took approx 1hour 10minutes (in Sunday traffic).