People
Cambodian
people are by far and wide some of the loveliest people I have ever met,
anywhere in the world. From tiny children to elderly couples, everyone wants to
greet us and welcome us to Cambodia .
Teenagers wave and shout hello as the drive past on their scooters, little
children pause their games to grin at us and say hello. From our first
impression at Koh Kong and Sihanoukville where we felt everybody was out to con
or rob us, our opinion of the Khmer people has changed entirely. They are such
a warm, friendly lot. It’s amazing when you think about all they’ve been
through. The Cambodians we've met have been very open with us about their experiences during the Khmer Rouge period; they've shared their stories with us
of the relatives they lost, or how they managed to escape. We've been astounded
by how gentle and loving the people are, when they could so easily be bitter
with resentment and grief.
Food
Khmer
food isn’t as good as Thai food, but it’s nice: rice, noodles, soups and
curries. Some of the more exotic delicacies we’ve come across include: fried
snake, embryo egg (boiled with a partially developed chicken inside), fried
frog and ice cream baguettes. The less touristy places always provide you with
a pot a jasmine tea and a glass of ice – for free.
Money
There’s
a two tiered pricing system in Cambodia
which means tourists pay a premium. Restaurants often have two menus, one in
Khmer and one in English, the English prices twice as high as the Khmer prices.
The same goes for bus tickets, hotel rates and the rest. There are no coins in Cambodia .
Dollars are used down to the one dollar bill, any smaller change is given in
riel.
Post
There
is no real postal service in Cambodia ,
mail is delivered by the intercity buses in a complicated web of drop-offs and
pick-ups. People wait with their parcels along the main roads where the buses
pass, they flag down a bus going to their desired destination and for a small
fee the bus driver will drop off their package along the roadside further down
the way, where the recipient is waiting. If the recipient is unaware, the
package will be dropped off at the local post office, or with a helpful
villager who hopefully won’t steal the goods! We discovered this after leaving
our homestay in Lvea village, when we realised it would be near impossible to
keep in touch with our kind host, Wanah. The post is also the reason that any
journey in Cambodia
takes a hell of a lot longer than it should. For example, these deliveries are
the reason why it took us over five hours to cover the 170km from Phnom Penh to Kampot.
Clothes
Cambodian
women are crazy about pyjamas. Brightly coloured, matching two pieces pyjama
sets are the norm on the street throughout Cambodia
(although less so in Phnom Penh .)
It’s as if somebody imported pyjamas for the first time but never passed on the
message that elsewhere they’re worn for bed. Waitresses, chefs, shopkeepers and
school children go about their business in their pyjamas. I even saw one lady
wearing a dressing gown as a coat. Strangely, the men don’t seem to share this
love of pyjamas, maybe they know the truth about them being made for bedtime
and are having a secret laugh at the women?!
The Patriarchy
Which
brings me on to…sexism! Despite Cambodians being so friendly and polite, I have
become invisible again here. It’s not as bad as India , and I’m sure solo female
travellers wouldn’t notice it, but walking down the street with Ric I am
invisible to vendors, hawkers and tuk-tuk drivers. I should consider myself
lucky to not get “tuk-tuk sir?” shouted
at me every two minutes, but every now and then I’d like to be offered.