The white sands of Hoi An's An Banh beach continue for 30km up the coast to Da Nang, Vietnam's third biggest city. We caught the local bus to a hotel 4km out of the city center and spent two nights there.
During our time in Da Nang we had a constant battle with the number 1 bus. First we paid 20,000VND each ($1/£0.60) to travel all the way from Hoi An to our hotel (approximately 25km). The next day the same bus tried to charge us 35,000VND each to travel 3km to Marble Mountain (more than the cost of a private taxi), but after some arguing, accepted just 5,000 per pax. The following evening the same bus tried charging us 35,000VND to travel 5km into Da Nang city center. It seems different bus drivers have a different idea of how much the 'tourist tax' should be!
The highlight of our trip to Da Nang was Marble Mountain (Ngũ Hành Sơn), half way between Hoi An and Da Nang. From the road it looks like a giant rock rising out of the ground, adorned with an ugly elevator that is quite at odds with the ornate 6 level pagoda over looking the coastline. As the name suggests, the mountain, along with a scattering of others in the area, is made of marble, and the streets surrounding its base are lined with sculptors carving out huge statues Buddha and Ho Chi Min, the two Gods worshiped in Vietnam.
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| Pagoda, Marble Mountain. |
After paying the entrance fee of 15,000VND ($0.75/£0.45) we climbed the stone steps up the mountain and were amazed to discover an enchanting maze of caves, grottos and hidden temples. At first glance I would never have guessed that Marble Mountain contained so many hidden wonders. Narrow staircases carved into the rock lead us around tight corners, through hidden passageways to reveal vast caves decorated with beautiful carvings of Buddha. Each cave was different, one lead us up a vertical tunnel onto the top of the mountain for a 365 degrees view of the area, with Da Nang to the North and Hoi An to the South. The final cave was as big as a cathedral, with a huge Buddha statue lit from above with natural light filtering in through a gap in the top of a cave. It was impressive, a great spot to pass a morning exploring.
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| View West from Marble Mountain. |
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| View North, towards Da Nang. |
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| Spot Ric? Buddha carved into the rock at Marble Mountain. |
During our time in Hoi An and Da Nang we've been constantly followed by groups of young boys banging drums and dancing around in dragon costumes. Our hotel receptionist tells us it's part of a festival that lasts for two weeks, terminating on the first full moon in September. The children dressed as dragons are said to bring good luck to the homes, hotels and restaurants that they enter, as long as the proprietor offers them a generous donation. Over the past two weeks the drum banging has escalated from small groups of children making a racket to full on parades displaying some impressive gymnastics. Below is a video taken from a display outside our hotel in Da Nang.
